Building for "Desi" and vying for "Videshi" tourists in Goa.
Talk of the town this ITD was "Sustainable Tourism" but AWOL in deeds. What is left in Goa for an European tourist?
For someone arriving from crowded metros of India to Goa meant, as soon as you descend from the Bus, breath of fresh air would swamp you; an unmistakable signature fragrance, a mix of sea breeze and forest breeze.
As one moves ahead towards her destination, rows of coconut trees with paddy fields on either sides and (if lucky) the view of hills and ridges a bit far ahead in horizon.
The quaint old world charm used to greet, as one gets closer to the popular beaches. Portuguese cute houses, small shops, people lingering and occassional restaurant and local dens.
Circa 2023 : All this has changed.
Wherever you descend in Goa, the spectacle of rapid urbanisation is too difficult to miss.
For an usual domestic traveller it still would not be such an eyesore, compared to from where she is coming from.
These travellers, the domestic ones do not really mind because, they are here for at most a long weekend or the best guess, a week; an itinerary prepared with the help of a checklist and what reels to make, where. Even being repeat visitors, it does not afford them too much time for introspection about what has happened to Goa.
Too many reels, diminishes one's memory, after all.
Let's look at the original Hippie destination of Goa, Anjuna. Unarguably, what Goa is today famous for, it's all due to Anjuna. Hippies in late 1960s and early 1970s discovered this small village, which was just perfect for them.
Pristine beaches, surrounded by natural bounty of forests and hills all around. Lovely locals, who were just happy with their lives, with what little life accorded to them. Least bothered about how Hippies conducted themselves, yet hospitable and friendly to them. It was a perfect symbiotic relationship.
Today,as one approach Anjuna via any route from Mapusa, there is a constant stream of hotels and restaurants all around the way. Posh villas, gated society vie for the space, along with boutique restaurants. And as one enters Anjuna, one is forced to wonder whether it is South Delhi or Anjuna, once inhabited by carefree Hippies.
All this new construction which have sprung up, in past decade, do not cater to foreigners. They are built to cater the ravaging influx of domestic tourists, all around the year.Built without any proper planning or respect for the local laws(which includes Panchayat or local governing body), the South Delhification of Anjuna has destroyed the very charm, with which Hippies and Foreigners associated the place with.
On a sunny winter morning, it is almost impossible to find a stretch on the shore, where the one who does not want to entrench oneself on any of the myriad shacks, because of the cost, could lie down and enjoy the Sun and sand.
We are not even talking here about the conduct of the domestic tourists here.
Next door Vagator, which was once a small majorly fishing village, is now hub of Party scene, with locals bearing the brunt and even after many directions of High Court, the parties last all day and night on weekends. These parties are not frequented by foreigners, but 99% by domestic tourists. They want to make the most of the weekend that they have in Goa.
On any weekend night, it is impossible to walk safely in the bylanes of Vagator, due to the number of cars driven by "Desi" or domestic tourists. Restaurants run by businessmen from different parts of the country, are open till wee hours, playing music and doing brisk business, sans to any concern regarding the laws or the civic sense of operating among aboriginal villagers, next door.
From Morjim, Ashvem and Mandrem; while the roads are totally potholed and barely present, as they should be in a civilised society; but no dearth of big resorts and hotels lined all along the roads both sides. Where space is a constraint to build large prospects, have come up restaurants of all varieties.
While locals have been suffering due to lack of water for even drinking purpose, this summer, the projects are still coming up. There is no scenery along the road from Morjim to Mandrem. It's all concrete and signboards. If you find a vacant spot, it means the space is under litigation or the right asked price has yet to come.
Not ironic that the local MLA Jit Arolkar, who defected to ruling party after election, has a criminal case of land grabbing running against him, perhaps the biggest, in Goa to date.
While the Morjim to Mandrem stretch has been famous with foreigners, being long liners, they would stay in guest houses, to save money. Most of the locals have a room or two spare, and are happy to host them. While the resorts and hotels which have sprung up, cater only to domestic tourists, for whom the price is not a problem.
Built with money power, these construction are an eye sore, and in complete contrast to what Goa stood for. The entire shoreline is now lined up with expensive themed restaurant and party places which vie for reel maniac "Desi" tourists.
Locals who protest against illegal projects which cut hills and orchards in Morjim, they are being punished with FIR filed against them by Goa Police.
So much for camaraderie and brotherhood.
When money rules, rulers become pimps.
If you build with impunity, vying for the maximum footfall; there are going to be pitfalls. While there are many, here we are discussing only, the arrival of foreigners in Goa, which has decreased considerably.
If we discount a couple of countries, the figure would be almost shameful.
It is laughable that rulers (not proper to call them Government) of Goa, don't understand that, all around the world, the 100 Kms coastline of the state is not the only place, which offers solace to foreign travellers.
While great verbose about "Sustainable Tourism" flowed on the International Tourism Day by all and sundry of the ruling disposition of Goa; it is abysmal that all around the Northern coast, wherever you see, there is hardly anything sustainable, which is visible.
And the fact of matter is that, this very disposition allowed the destruction to happen, due to crony capitalism. Twisting and tweaking of of both local and state laws in order to curry favours, works in the short term for the benefit of rulers, but in the long term it's a losing proposition for them as well.
But it takes foresight to realise that, but when the minds are clogged by imperialism, no one can clear the fog.
The local aboriginal have to decide how much is enough, and the sooner they do, it's better for their kids. After all, it is the children of today, who are going to suffer the maximum brunt in future.